Welcome to the tutorial for the Simple Sew Peter Pan Blouse. This cute blouse features a collar, grown on sleeves and a button back.
1 - First things first, work out what size you need to make by taking your measurements and using the size chart on the pattern envelope to find the best fit. Buy all your supplies and pre-wash your fabric. I always iron my paper pattern pieces before cutting them and I cut them out roughly then go back and cut around the correct size. Some people like to trace their paper patterns so that they have all the sizes intact, but I feel like life is too short!
One thing to point out that you need to keep in mind throughout sewing this blouse is seam allowances are 1cm. This is smaller than the standard 1.5cm, so make sure you stick to it or the blouse will be ill fitting and the pieces won’t line up!
Cut out all the fabric pieces according to the instructions and lay plans.
2 - Iron interfacing onto one set of collar pieces.
3 - Then pin two collars right sides together and sew around the outer curve. Take it slowly around the curve so that it is nice and rounded.
4 - Trim down the seam allowance or notch the curve. This is so that when it is turned through to the right side there is minimal bulk and the curve is smooth. I like to use pinking shears to get really close to the line of stitching - it works a little like a cross between trimming the seam allowance and notching. Repeat for the other collar.
5 - Turn the collars round so that they are right sides out. Roll the edges between your fingers to get the seams to sit flat.
6 - Give them a good press.
7 - Moving onto the main part of the blouse, pin the shoulder seams together, with right sides of the fabric together and sew. Pin the side seams together, with right sides of the fabric together, and sew. Finish the seams and press open. On a fabric that does not fray too much, I just pink the seams. Other options are to use a zig-zag stitch or an overlocker.
8 - Fold the centre back seams over by 5mm, right sides together, press and sew.
9 - Place the collar on top of the blouse, so that the right side of the blouse and the right side of the collar are both facing up. Pin into place.
10 - Sew the collar to the blouse
11 - Pin the bias binding to the collar edge. The right side of the binding should be face down, against the right side of the collar. The fold line of the binding should sit just a little further out from the line of stitching you have just sewn (or directly on top of it if you are very neat!)
12 - Sew along the fold line of the binding, all the way around the collar.
13 - This is what it should look like so far, with the binding flipped up.
14 - Trim the collar and blouse seam down so that it is in line with the binding. Press the binding up away from the collar, towards the wrong side of the blouse.
15 - Making sure the collar is out of the way, sew the binding down to the blouse. You will be sewing from the wrong side at the edge of the binding. Make sure the collar is pulled away so that you don’t sew through it. Press the neckline well.
16 - This is what it looks like from the right side with the collar lifted up - a line of stitching all the way around the neck.
17 - And this is it from the wrong side. The bias binding should only be visible on the inside.
18 - With the collar folded back down into place, the binding is not visible and the finish is really neat.
19 - Now to finish the arm holes. With the right side of the fabric facing up, pin bias binding around the armhole, right sides together, starting at the underarm seam. Leave a little extra at the beginning and the end to overlap. Start sewing a couple of centimetres after the underarm seam and stop a little before it.
20 - Pin the binding together at the arm hole seam and sew along this line.
21 - Trim the ends of the bias binding, press open and continue sewing to the arm hole edge. This produces a nice flat, continuous line of binding that perfectly fits the armhole.
22 - Fold the binding to the inside of the blouse and press. Sew from the wrong side at the edge of the binding.
23 - Give the arm hole a thorough press using lots of steam. It can be a little tricky to get the binding to stretch around the curves of the arm hole, so take your time. This is how it should look, with the binding only visible on the inside.
24 - Turn up the hem by 5mm and press. Turn up again by another 5mm and press. Pin in place and sew the hem.
25 - Ensure that you follow the curve of the hem to maintain the shape of the blouse.
26 - Using the notches on the centre back as a guide, turn the centre back seams in and press. This creates the button placket. Sew along the edge of the placket. At the top, the bias binding from the collar should now be enclosed within the button placket.
27 - Mark out the position that you would like the buttons down the back. Refer to the pattern piece for guidance or use your own placement.
28 - I have a one step buttonhole function on my machine, so it is nice and easy to sew multiple buttonholes.
29 - When ripping open the button holes, put a pin at the top. This will prevent you from ripping past the buttonhole opening.
30 - Pin the centre backs together at the top and bottom, then use the buttonholes to mark the position of the buttons on the other side.